Choosing a Tartan

by Eric McCracken

"The Highland dress is essentially a ‘free' dress - that is to say, a man's taste and circumstances must alone be permitted to decide when and where and how he should wear it... I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed.

-- the Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, 1901.

Likewise, I don’t presume to tell anyone how to dress. I merely present to you the traditions, history, and customs related to our national dress. We live in a free country, there are no ‘kilt police’ to arrest you for wearing the wrong tartan or a distasteful shirt. That being said, I think it is important to learn a lesson I learned regarding the composition of bagpipe music: “all rules may be bent, or even broken. However, you should only bend or break a rule once you understand and appreciate the reason for the rule.”

The first thing that most people think about when the word kilt comes up, is tartan. Tartan is simply a cloth, usually woven in wool twill, in a plaid pattern, which usually has some significance to the wearer. Most people wear their “Clan Tartan” or ‘Family Tartan’.

Without getting too deeply into the history of the clan system, all you really need to know is that most Highland families were associated with a clan. Most people joined whichever clan was the dominating force in their region, and clan membership was heritable by name. That is to say, if John Smith swore allegiance to the chief of the McLeods of Rasaay, then all of John Smith’s children would owe allegiance to McLeod, so long as they held the Smith name. John Smith’s children would cease to be part of Clan McLeod if they were rejected or exiled by the chief, if they swore allegiance to a new clan, or if they took a new name (i.e. married into another clan). So if John Smith’s daughter married a MacDonald, she would now be part of the MacDonald clan, as she would now bear the MacDonald name. To this day, legally speaking, anyone who bears the inherited surname of someone who was a clan member, is also a clan member, as membership is automatically inherited (assuming that in the generations since, none of your ancestors in the male line denounced their clan!).

The association of tartans with clans did not exist in the days when the clan system was the dominating way of life in the Highlands. The idea of clan or family tartans was (mostly) invented in the 1820s, when Highland dress became fashionable amongst the aristocracy once more. Tartan mills and weavers quickly bought into the idea in order to sell more tartan cloth. That being said, while the idea of clan tartans is basically a pseudo-hi